Since I began researching birding in Glacier National Park nearly a year ago, one of the birds that I most wanted to see was the White-tailed Ptarmigan. I liked that Ptarmigans were unusual — rare, range -restricted, cute quail-like birds. Ptarmigans live in harsh, alpine environments far above the tree line. Getting up to their snow-covered habitat in late June when we were going to the park could be a challenge. They have thickly feathered feet and even feathers around their nostrils to help them deal with the cold. Every winter, they molt out of their speckled brown breeding plumage into a beautiful snow white plumage for camouflage against the snow. These specialized adaptations have helped ptarmigans survive the cold, northern winters for millennia, but in a rapidly warming climate, they could be fatal.
When I was researching Glacier, I bought a bird finding guide called “Glacier is For the Birds” by ranger and biologist David Benson, who studies the effects of climate change on White-tailed Ptarmigans in the park. The book was very useful in learning what birds we could expect to see on the different trails, and more generally, some basic ecology of the park. While we were at Glacier, we had the opportunity to go on a bird walk with Dr. Benson. We had already seen all the common birds in the area of the walk, but we went for the chance to pick his brain about ptarmigans and couple of other target birds. He told us that the best place to see White-tailed Ptarmigans in the park was Logan Pass, but that this was a difficult time of year, since the Going-to-the-Sun Road (the only way to get to Logan Pass) was closed to all vehicles due to snow. Also, the ptarmigans don’t have chicks or flock this early in the year, so if we saw one, it would likely be by itself. He didn’t sound very encouraging. When we pressed him about our chances, he kind of raised his eyebrows and said, “Well, you can try ….” He said to scan every patch of exposed rock downslope from the Hidden Lake Nature Trail, and if we didn’t find ptarmigans there, to walk up and scan the higher rocky patches.
Dr. Benson also pointed out that, unfortunately, there were less White-tailed Ptarmigans at Logan now than there used to be, probably because of declining moisture levels due to climate change. At this point he thought there were only about 16 breeding adults left there, less than half the number that had been there 50 years ago. Ptarmigans get stressed at temperatures over seventy degrees, and need snow or snow melt to cool themselves down. Less snow and earlier snowmelt makes it harder and harder for them to cool themselves down sufficiently.
Three days previously, we had attempted to find Ptarmigans at Piegan Pass, a high pass through the mountains separating the center of the park from Many Glacier where we were staying. According to Dr. Benson’s book, a small number of Ptarmigans could be found along the barren, rocky top of the ridge line at the pass. The five mile hike to Piegan Pass from Jackson Glacier Overlook where we left our car was almost deserted. Flocks of Pine Siskins and Cassin’s Finches foraged on the clean white snow beneath the stunted forest of Sub-alpine Fir. The mountain felt pristine and peaceful, exactly how I had always dreamed of mountainous coniferous forests. I saw the blur of a wing out of the corner of my eye. Turning I caught a Boreal Chickadee slipping into a fir. Soon we were surrounded by Boreal and Mountain Chickadees, and Red-breasted Nuthatches.
It wasn’t long before the poorly traveled trail completely disappeared into the snow. We wandered towards the wall of mountain peaks up ahead, trying to find a footprint that might show where the trail went. The first people we met were two cross-country skiers, apparently miffed that a family of hikers was attempting to get to the pass. They told us that they wouldn’t recommend traveling the trail without “trekking boots” or skis. They emphatically gestured to the snow covered treeless peaks and said the Piegan Pass trail crossed “dangerous snow fields.” We hoped they were exaggerating. As we continued to flounder about, trying to find the trail, we heard a loud, raucous noise from the dark sky above us. Looking up, we saw two large, gray birds with black wings swooping between tall spruce trees. We felt cheered by the Clark’s Nutcrackers, another life bird to keep us going.
Upon emerging from the trees, we were surrounded by steep slopes of flaky red and brown rocks, and the occasional stunted fir that managed to survive the harsh conditions. We could see the trail crossing the peaks in front of us – a thin, straight line, mid way up the steep slopes. Once we had climbed up to the trail, we could see the whole valley below us, and in the distance, Siyeh Bend in the closed portion of Going-to-the-Sun Road. Periodically, thick bands of icy snow crossed the path, from the exposed peaks down to the trees far below. The only birds we saw were two Mountain Bluebirds huddling near the tree line. As we crossed one of the snowfields, our shoes barely digging in to the steep, slippery surface, a man carrying a large backpack came around the bend. He was extremely exuberant and cheerful about the difficult hiking conditions, in stark contrast to the skiers we had met earlier. He told me and my brother that the “funnest thing to do in the park” if we had snow pants and an ice axe, was to slide down the snowfields all the way to tree line and meet up with our parents at the bottom of the valley.
Continuing along the path, we stumbled and slid over three more ice sheets, with the wind roaring up from the valley and pushing us against the mountain wall. We made it almost to the pass, stopping periodically and scanning the hillside on either side of us for Ptarmigans. We knew they might blend in perfectly with the surrounding rocks and didn’t want to miss one in plain sight. Right before we got to the pass, a steeper ice sheet stopped us. We were so close, but still just too far to clearly see the rocks there with our binoculars. How infuriating!
The thought of traveling back over the exposed, icy snowfields with the wind whipping up the valley harder than ever and back down through the snow-covered forest sounded hellish. Alas, we did not have snow-pants and an ice-axe to slide all the way down! Still, when we peered down to the road with our binoculars it looked like if we bush-whacked straight down we would encounter a lot less snow. Once we came out on the road at Siyeh Bend, we could walk back to our car. We followed the trail back only until it wasn’t too steep to go straight down the mountain. As we made our way down the rocky slope, my brother suddenly called from ahead that he saw a Gray-crownd Rosy-Finch. I nearly broke my ankle trying to get to him before it flew away. It was the first time I had ever seen a Rosy Finch, and I was extremely happy about it. Several hours later, we emerged on the road, having had an adventure, but not having seen a Ptarmigan.
Earlier in the week, a ranger told us that we could hike four miles from the road closure up to Logan Pass along the Going-to-the-Sun road on weekends, but not on any other days (due to work crews on the roads). Since we were flying home on Sunday, this meant that if we wanted to go to Logan Pass, Saturday was our last chance. We got to the Jackson Glacier Parking lot before almost everybody else Saturday morning.
Starting out on foot, the road was wet with dew and early morning rain. Suddenly, I heard something rustle in the brush to the side of the road. I drew back as a mother Grizzly Bear and her cub walked across the road. I was so intent on watching them that I forgot to reach for my camera until it was nearly too late. I did manage one good shot of the cub as they disappeared into the trees on the other side of the road.
We enjoyed the views of the many valleys, mountains, streams and glaciers as we walked. The only people we saw were a few bikers. The four miles went by surprisingly quickly, and we soon found ourselves at the Logan Pass Visitor Center, which was closed. The mountain air was clean and sharp. The 8 foot high Sub-alpine Firs that had been growing over the last half mile of the road finally stopped, giving way to pure, white snow. A four foot snow pack covered the ground, running from the visitor center all the way up and over the giant mountains in the background. Every so often, a small patch of rocky alpine vegetation poked out of the snow. The White-tailed Ptarmigans live in these patches, apparently very rarely walking on the snow or in vegetation taller than themselves (thank goodness!). We followed the rough location of the Hidden Lake Nature Trail by walking on top of the snow, which was frozen enough to hold us up. With excitement mounting, we began to search the lower patches for Ptarmigans. White-crowned Sparrows and Slate Colored Fox Sparrows foraged in the melting snow on the edges of the rocky patches, along with American Pipits, Cassin’s Finches, and Gray-crowned Rosy Finches, which finally let me get them in good lighting for photos.
After thoroughly scanning the lower patches, we headed up the trail toward the towering peaks and large alpine slopes. After having searched for over an hour and not having had any luck, I was beginning to get discouraged. Climbing over the snow up the mountain was hard work. The sun had come out, and it was getting hot, and since we were on snow, it was also getting extremely, glaringly, bright. I decided that if we were going to search thoroughly, somebody should really go up above the rocks and check them from the top. Climbing the mile or so it took to get there was probably the hardest hike in my life. My boots dug into the slippery snow down to a good six inches and it got steep. There would be an extremely steep segment and then it would level out again for awhile, before getting even steeper. I was hiking over four feet of snow in a short sleeve shirt. As I got closer to the rocky patches, I could see the little dots that were my family far below me. Looking out over the snow plain below me from 7,250 ft above sea level, I could see far beyond the Logan Pass visitor center and into the valley beyond it.
I began scanning every rocky patch for Ptarmigans and working my way back along the ridge toward the pass. Soon, I had thoroughly seen every bit of four of the rock piles, so I started making my way toward the fifth, a small cliff like face further out in the sea of snow. My dad, who had been scanning through our spotting scope, suddenly yelled, “I see one!” I began skidding down the mountain toward my family faster than I ever would have without such incentive. When I got to the scope a few minutes later the Ptarmigan hadn’t moved (of course it hadn’t, it was sitting in a little indent in the cliff face and nonchalantly pecking at the dirt in front of it). As I looked at the cute little bird, I felt that I could finally let our trip be a success. We had seen our three most important targets, Gray-crowned Rosy-Finch, Boreal Chickadee, and White-tailed Ptarmigan. We had also seen many other beautiful new birds and endless gorgeous scenery. I wasn’t able to get a very good photo at that distance, but my brother got some decent ones.
We watched the bird for a half hour, and then headed back toward the road to get to Kalispell so we could get a good night’s sleep before our 5:30am flight home the next day.